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Farmer's Rust Experiments

Farmer7574

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True Blood
Joined
Dec 10, 2013
Messages
1,587
#1
So I haven't had much motivation to sit down and concentrate on things for a prolonged period of time these days due to the humidity, and so decided to play about with different rust techniques.

I can be quite indecisive when deciding on a colour scheme for a mini (or the next 200), so I'd appreciate your feedback on which method looks the best.

I'm new to painting rust but have come up with the following 15 results using a variety of techniques (thanks to the guys that have given me advice here on CN).

Excuse the bad photography. I'll edit the post with painting directions for each experiment in the next few days when I have more time so that beginners can get some ideas on where to start painting their weathered skellies.

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi60.tinypic.com%2F2rylkj7.jpg&hash=42841a0731e7c5a99f3c5d19b9cb20b4


Cheers

EDIT: Painting Steps

BC = Base coat, DB = Dry brush, ST = Stipple, OB = Over brush, FL = Flick, HL = Highlight, W = Wash, L = Layer

All of these were done on a Vallejo Black Surface Primer.

1. ST Mournfang / ST Ryza / OB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
2. BC Leadbelcher / ST Mournfang / ST Ryza / W Nuln / ST Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
3. ST Mournfang / ST Ryza / W Nuln / DB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
4. BC Leadbelcher / W Mournfang 1:2 Water / W Previous mix + 1/4 Troll Slayer Orange / DB & HL Ironbreaker
5. BC Leadbelcher / W Nuln (crevices only) / L Leadbelcher / FL Reikland / FL Feugan / HL Ironbreaker
6. BC Mournfang / ST Ryza / DB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
7. BC Mournfang / ST Deathclaw / OB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / W Nuln (crevices only) / HL Ironbreaker
8. BC Leadbelcher / ST Mournfang / ST Ryza / W Nuln / ST Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
9. BC Leadbelcher / W Nuln / W Reikland (rust areas) / W Feugan (rust areas) / HL Ironbreaker
10. BC Leadbelcher / W Feugan / W Nuln (crevices only) / DB & HL Ironbreaker
11. BC Leadbelcher / W Feugan / W Agrax (crevices only) / DB Leadbelcher / HL Ironbreaker
12. BC Leadbelcher / W Reikland / FL Feugan / DB Leadbelcher / HL Ironbreaker
13. BC Mournfang / ST Ryza / W Nuln / OB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
14. BC Mournfang / ST Ryza / DB Leadbelcher / W Nuln / HL Ironbreaker
15. BC Mournfang / ST Ryza / DB Leadbelcher / W Agrax / HL Ironbreaker
 
Last edited:

Tawg

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Jan 16, 2012
Messages
1,132
#2
So let's start with 10, 9, 3, 2, and 6 (Just because the picture for that one is a little less clear, so I'm not looking at it too closely) are out IMO. Interestingly enough 10, 9, and 2 happen to be the same "model" of sword, which is slightly part of it because I don't like how shiny the rim of the pox marks are, or rather perhaps, not how shiny but.. how much it breaks up the "rust" coloration with a solid silver? But I also don't like them being a bit more even across the blades. 3 is actually decent, if you don't prefer orange in the rust color, but I do think the orange looks better. That could entirely change though if it doesn't suit the color pallet of the model as a whole though, so bear that in mind.

1 and 7 are both ok, and nearly identical. My best guess is the difference being in how far from the hilt of the blade the rust technique was? 7 just looks like it's further down the blade with the darker brown, but they look like they are done in the same style? Kind of, flicking the paint off the bristles type deal? 1 also looks like it has more contrast between the darker brown and the orange applied. I do prefer 7 in this pairing.

4 and 5 seem similar in technique used to get the rust effect. Though 5 looks like it goes more into orange. 8 also looks like it would fit in this grouping, but with more brown in the mix. 4 however is different from 5 and 8 in that it doesn't have the silver breaking up the rust effect as much, and I think 5 and 8 are better for it. But I would say that 5 is superior to 8 in a few ways. Namely I think the darker brown being at the hilt then faded into orange across the blade looks wonderful. But also I feel that 8 has too much silver breaking up the rust color, and it almost counters the effect being too metallic-y. Granted 5 and 8 clearly had the same technique applied to have the metal reveal, I think it is pulled off better on 5. Perhaps also due to orange, but the contrast between the metallic and the darker colored rust of 8 make the difference more stark? Where as 5's silver vs orange-y rust doesn't draw your eye as hard. Plus 5 starts further down the blade, and I think the solid base of rust near the hilt is nice looking.

For the shields, 12 and 15 are fairly similar except for the ring of silver on 12. Either you went back to lighten that part up, or you did a more targeted technique on it, but I don't think either of those are the best.

13 looks a bit too monotone in it's darkness, although I do really like 11 (Which I do think is the best of those). 14 could be interesting, but it is a little harder to see. I can tell you did a blanket rust before a targeted bit of more intense effect on key areas, but the picture isn't the best on that one.

I may just be talking out my ass though, so feel free to ignore anything I said if I was dead-wrong with my guessing. :ghost:
 

Farmer7574

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Dec 10, 2013
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#4
@Tawg Well a lot of your guesses are quite accurate, and cheers for your constructive and detailed feedback! A few of these are half-assed attempts which are the results of messing around with a select set of colours I had sitting on the desk. Others had more effort put into them. I've also found that the solid edge highlighting that I'm used to doesn't really work well on rusted war gear, and a dry brush followed by picking small parts out with a highlight looks much better.

I wanted to give @Mad 'At 's rust a shot but unfortunately didn't have some colours for it. An experiment for the future! @Borgnine 's rust is also cool but I couldn't get it to look as good as he did. I've just noticed that I haven't included my version here...

@The Sun King Cheers! 5 & 11 are my personal favourites too. Feugan Orange works pretty well for bright orangey brown rust.
 

Tawg

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Jan 16, 2012
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#5
Hey @Farmer7574 not sure if you started into your rust painting in full, but I thought I'd bring something up.

Recently in a WD (83) they had a regiment of renown at the end, and it was Skitarii Rust Stalkers painted all up in rusty color. They said the guy who did them started with a base of orange -> shade/wash -> then drybrush metallic on top. Made the orange "rusty" color in all the lower parts with metallic showing on the edges mostly. It looks fairly decent on a full unit like he did up, I could take a picture of the unit if you'd like to see.

Anyways, just thought you might be interested in an alternative, since I noticed none of your methods started with the orange.
 

Farmer7574

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Dec 10, 2013
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#6
@Tawg Hey man. Yeah that would be cool if you could get a picture up here.

I haven't started them yet but plan to do a few test models using the most-liked methods. I'd be interested in checking out what you've just mention too.
 

Tawg

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#7
Voilà.
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi1164.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq576%2FTreelamp%2F20150830_195820.jpg&hash=6f583bdf71b8e4f23bedd0241b6208ad

Ruststalkers by Dom Murray (Obviously not done by me).

Hopefully the picture come out alright. They said he started Firedragon Orange, Agrax Earthshade then drybrush Ironbreaker.
 

Farmer7574

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True Blood
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Dec 10, 2013
Messages
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#8
@Tawg Cheers! His paint job is pretty cool. Smooth drybrushing and a nice browny orange rust tone. I think I'll experiment a little with this method later and see how it looks on shields & swords.

Thanks for taking the time to upload the pic mate :thumbsup:
 

ObliviJohn

Vampire wood elf
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
187
#9
This is good stuff. I like nr 5 alot. Think I might look back into this when the need emergeces.
 

Farmer7574

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True Blood
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#10
@Tawg I experimented with Dom's method a few days ago and, unfortunately, I couldn't make it look as impressive as his Rust Stalkers when applying it to a skeleton's sword.

@ObliviJohn Cheers mate. I'm glad this is of use to you!
 

Tawg

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#11
Yeah, I had feared it wouldn't go as well on a more.. featureless surface. The POP really comes out on his because there are so many crevasse for the lower layers to stay in, and create the richer layering. Flat surface/smaller area seems like it would suffer, especially since his technique was fairly simple :ghost: And it's harder to fool the eye the simpler you try.
 
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