RE: Fluffys Vampiric Host - Month 1
Guide is done! I didn't use Bleached Bone that much at all!
And here are the results!
From here, just use a standard brush, I'll tell you when I change brushes. And I use all GW paints

, and one of their fine detail brushes, while my regular is a cheap one from the news agents :lol:
--Step 1. Base Colours:
Start by base coating the bones all Scorched Brown. Then paint them a 50/50 mix of Scorched/Graveyard earth Brown. Once dry, then dry brush them pure Graveyard, but make sure to show the darker browns underneath.
Lookie lookie!:
So, you've done that, eh? Well don't think you're even half done yet, even with the bone. Next comes a mix of 20/20/5 of Graveyard Earth/Desert Yellow/Skull White. Once you mix this properly you'll get a colour very like bleached bone, but more realistic. I just applied it with a drybrush on the bone, I wasn't too neat because its very fixable. That doesn't mean be stupid, don't go making more work for yourself by painting heavily.
And there you have it: Bone, the BONESTORM(!!!!!) way
-- Step 2. Getting into weapons and clothes:
Making sure not to paint over the bone (at all! Be neat, as it takes ages to fix

). I based most of it in Scab Red, leaving clear of red the areas I thought would look good as metallic (Note: I did paint the shield red, but obviously, it can be a metallic too, as I change it into one later on). I still did the sword pure bolt gun metal, fairly large ammount, didn't want black sneaking through to be visible.
And as for the straps, and the strings holding up the Skeleton's rags, I based them pure Iyanden Darksun (Goddam I hate having to look up that name every time I want to say my yellow paint

) with a smaller brush then the one I was painting the red with. Not quite fine detail, but smaller then normal brushes.
Very important - If you add too much paint, take it off! Or you'll lose detail, which I'm showing you how to do! Grrr...
Detail is good
So, base Reds and pure metal weapons, looking good so far
-- Step 3. Moving onto the proper metallics:
I Based the areas that I left clear of Scab Red (the end of the sword guard, and parts of the helmet) earlier in pure Burnished Gold (IMO the best GW gold paint), making sure not to get the red gold or cover up any details. Once again, detail = good. So at this point what you should have is a skelly that looks somewhat like this:
Simple enough. And once thats dry, you add the second coat of Scab Red IF you need it, I did because my red paint it very old, about 1 and a half years at this stage :| so doesn't spread as well as newer pots
-- Step 4. the final details:
Now, you have a nearly done Skeleton - how long did that take you? I'm guessing very, but it does get faster the more you do.
For the bone, if there are any bits of darker brown peaking through, you have two options, use some watered down Bleached Bone (20/40 water to paint), making sure the bone you can see first gets that high light first, and that no other part is high lighted as bright. Or you can do the other option, mix Graveyard Earth and Skull White (about 60/10 the first time, but then about 10 more to the white everytime you wish to add another high light - I do 2) I prefer this option, as it is the only way I did the skulls I've done so far, but for bones like the Humerus, and the Femur (read upper arm bone and thigh bone) I used the watered down paint, as its faster and easier to mix.
Finally, for fixing any bone paint that you may have gotten inbetween the bones, water down some black ink (painters discretion) and use a fine detail brush to go between the bones, and make it black basically

Perfect bone colour should be what you have on your skelly now, hopefully

Now, thats what I call BONESTORM!!!!!!
[sorry, no pics

]
On to clothes:
First off, I added some high lights from 50/50 Blood/Scab Red, on the more visible parts, like the head cloth. It's good to leave it here if you don't want a shiney look.
I inked all the red cloth with red ink, then once that had dried, chestnut ink

It ends up looking quite shiney, a lot like spilled blood, after all, that IS how I make my blood covered weapon. I would not recomend this on a banner, as I just left mine with high lights and it looks Ace

The Yellow stays ink free anyway.
The shield should now be painted in quarters with a standard brush (you can use more detailed, but I wouldn't bother), I chose to use Iyanden Darksun to cover two quarters, at opposing ends.
The back of the shield was painted pure Scab Red where I could, not touching any bone.
I touched up the ends of the yellow bit of the shield with Sun Burst yellow, with a fine detail brush, then fixed up the red part of the shield with 50/50 blood/scab red on the edges of the shield. I painted the centre of the shield pure bolt gun metal, and aged it the same way as the metals below
Then the Gold and Metal:
All I did was add pure Chestnut Ink in large ammounts on them, but didn't spread them. Just dumped them there, and left them to dry. Looks Ace against weapons.
On the gold I use fine detail, because the gold is harder to get at then the metal.
With added metallic shield - see below
--Step 5. The smallest Details.
To add effect, I got a very small ammount of chainmail on a big enough dry brushing brush, then wiped most of it off on a tissue the same way as dry brushing, and then
very lightly drybrushed the metallic sparkle on the shield. This in turn should paint the studs
I pick out the teeth individually with a fine detail brush and pure skull white.
Then I go through the bones again, touching up flaked away paint, and adding watery black ink to the less shadowed part. I have yet to take a pic of this skelly with his teeth done, but it's basicallt the same as the test one I did earlier.
Well, thanks for reading - or at least looking at the pictures

Any questions? Have I missed something? I don't think I have, but I may have...
Feel free to ask, I'm always happy to help a learner painter, or even an intermediate - like me
Well, back to the next model :grin: