Gluing Tomb King shields

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Sirihar

Crypt Horror
Aug 16, 2007
543
Brink Of Insanity
Zombies
265
I have been assembling TK skeleton regiments. Most have been assembled with little or no problems at all, but there are a few which I have encountered problems with.

Mainly it's the shields. Once I have applied the glue to the shield and placed it so the hand is positioned where it should be, the shield does not stay in the position and proceeds to slide out of place.

What could be causing the problem?
 
Are you using GW's glue?

If so change to Humbrol, actually works like a glue unlike GW's bottle of snot.


You could also try gluing the arms to the shields before gluing them to the skeletons.
 
Use superglue and an accelerator.

It's what my borther did........ including on some of my older Vampire counts stuff.
 
My question to you is that what are you going to do after you've glued them? If you plan on keeping them on there for the rest of their life: get a glue that will "melt" the plastics together to make one complete part. If you are looking for a quick fix then go for one of those bonders that just dry and hope it holds. Me personally I go with Testors plastic glue. If Humbrol is the same way then I'd go for it.
 
Hehe.... he(we) did that for a while... still is the usual proticol but when you have 30 Tomb King and 20 old VC skellies to paint and put together in one day you lose patience.
 
In my opinion you added too much glue. I've had this before and the only way to make it work is adding less glue, making it a bit dry already.

Then again, they fall of easily too.
 
it took me 2 days (30-36 hrs of work) to build 2 $90 boxes of skaven and the skaven ninja things and I did not once use any accelerator. I have used it in the past but I found that if any glue spills on the model and then you hit it with the accelerator the glue is a pain to get off, just glue all the legs on the bases then let that sit as you are removing the flash form the torsos or what ever the next part is and by the time you are ready to add the 2nd part the glue will have set and you just repeat this for the rest of the model.
 
My question to you is that what are you going to do after you've glued them? If you plan on keeping them on there for the rest of their life: get a glue that will "melt" the plastics together to make one complete part.

I intend for the majority of them to be kept as they are for the rest of their lives, and for the command I intend to keep them so that I can change them if I want to.

Me personally I go with Testors plastic glue. If Humbrol is the same way then I'd go for it.

How reliable are the results of Testors? Were there any problems?

In my opinion you added too much glue. I've had this before and the only way to make it work is adding less glue, making it a bit dry already.

Yes, I found that I sometimes add a tad too much glue. I have also tried using less glue, and the shields still did not stick.

It is strange, as the majority of the shields stick with just a few that fail to stick.

ust glue all the legs on the bases then let that sit as you are removing the flash form the torsos or what ever the next part is and by the time you are ready to add the 2nd part the glue will have set and you just repeat this for the rest of the model.

That is what I do normally. But what type of glue to you use? I ask because different glues set at different times.
 
For both metals and plastics I use Loctite Super Glue Liquid. You can pick this up cheaply in the UK in your local Woolworths store or a lot more expensively in places like WH Smiths. Don't use the Loctite gel, it's dreadful.

For plastics you don't need much glue. Apply the glue then hold the two parts firmly together for about 5 seconds. After that leave the item for 20-30 seconds to dry completely.

If you buy the liquid remember before you put the cap back on hold the glue with the nozzle pointing towards the ceiling and tap the glue on your desk 2-3 times. This will force the glue back down out of the nozzle and stop it gluing itself closed.
 
For both metals and plastics I use Loctite Super Glue Liquid. You can pick this up cheaply in the UK in your local Woolworths store or a lot more expensively in places like WH Smiths. Don't use the Loctite gel, it's dreadful.

I have only ever heard good thing about Loctite Super Glue Liquid. Still, I find that it only really works well for metal models, not plastic.

I've just had a little look around and found some Humbrol. I will be using it on Friday, as that is the only time at the moment that I can paint and assemble.

Thanks everyone for your advice, it has been most welcomed.
 
use locktight. it can be found at target or home depot in the USA. if you glue a carnosaur's leg to the body, and drop it repeatedly, the metal will ben before the leg will come off.
 
Disciple of Nagash said:
Cheers for that Bug16 - I know where to pick up my next batch of glue from.

I get 3g tubes from WH Smith where I live (they got rid of our Woolworths :devil: ) and I pay through the nose for it (about £2.90). From Woolworths you'll pay under £2. Whenever I visit my parents I bulk buy about 10 packs from their local Woolworths as that'll last me well over a year. It dors make me look like I have a bit of a "problem" though when I go to pay for it. ;)

I've just found a store on ebay selling it in bulk. 6x 5g packs for £12.80. I've ordered some. :) Direct link:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-x-LOCTITE-S...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Btw, don't get the one packaged with superglue remover as that costs a fortune (nearly £5!).
 
I have glued over 150 TK skeletons, and I have had absolutely no problem with them:cool:
BTW i was using Revell Contacta Professional
 
Heck gentleman/ladies, I might just have to go find this locktight ya'll talk about. Does it really do this well?

As for the testors: I still find this the best route to go when you have plastic2plastic bond. I guess it takes a good 30seconds to let it initially dry then another ?2-5 hrs? to completely dry.
 
Sirihar said:
How reliable are the results of Testors? Were there any problems?

Testors ( or other plastic model cement ) is perfect for all your plastic kits. I use it exclusively over super glue. Dries faster and no parts snapping off down the road.

For metals I use a combo of superglue and 2 part epoxy.
 
I got my 6 pack of 5g glue today using the ebay seller mentioned further up in this threat, so I'd definitely (and will) recommend them.
 

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