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Jan 21, 2009
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...that in a forum devoted to the undead that we don't have a single sticky about how to paint skeletons? The new codex does not have any painting tips or even detailed color schemes (listing paint names, etc). Can anyone point me in the right direction?

-Silent Requiem
 
How to paint skeletons, you say?

Well, since I've painted my own in a rather un-skeletal way I can't speak out of true experience but this process seem to work well for bone..

1) Undercoat with chaos black
2) Apply darkish brown colour
3) Apply/drybrush bleached bone
4) Highlight with skull white/bleached bone
5) WASH! with devlan mud, heheh

And if this doesn't work as well as I imagine it does, lets hope that someone else with more experience on the matter decides to join in...
 
My tactic is similar except I just undercoat white and then immediately apply devlan mud. If you want you could drybrush some skull white or something on afterwards but I really like the aged look the devlan brown gives.
 
I did some bone on my Ghouls and this 3 step method seems to work well(I don't count a chaos black undercoat, because I assume you already did that step. Almost everyone does that anyway):

1.Flat coat of Dheneb Stone
2.Wash with Ogryn Flesh(apply 2 coats or a really heavy 1st pass if you want to make the bone look really aged)
3.Drybrush Dheneb Stone(for highlights)

It's another way of getting aged/weathered bone, and a pretty good one IMO. I haven't tried splashmummy's approach yet though so I'm not sure if our different methods end up with similar/same results.
 
I support this request. We need some painting stickies here.

And my skellies were done like this (and look like this ):
- Base coat of khemri brown
- Devlan mud wash
- Bleached bone drybrush (several dry and lightly brushed layers)
- Even dryer dry brush of skull white
 
I got one that's even MORE work. But also very cool, hes got a tutorial posted somewhere lemme see if i can find it. Here is his album. Curseofbeers

Here we go, its his short one ill see if i can find the longer one. Copied Verbatim, or you guys would never find it, its buried in the Warhammer forums. No pun intended >.>


Originally posted by Curse of Beers on Fri Dec 21, 2007 6:12 pm
at Warhammer Forums


/begin quote

Having just written a very lengthy reply to a question by Xtapl of these forums, I thought I'd post it here. It's a very quick guide to:

'Misting' and light sourcing using sprays.

I've been asked about misting quite a lot. Basically it's a light highlight of white spray. I use it to give a quick highlight over coloured sprays and base colours, before highlighting to white with a brush and glazing back down with coloured glazes. The effect is great - very strak and moody.

The misting is a combo of distance and spray intensity. Start about a foot away and go for a few short squirts of the can. The key thing is not to press the nozzle lightly or it will start 'spitting', leaving little droplets of white everywhere. By increasing the distance and going for short blasts of the can you should be able to get a good overall effect. Don't stand too far away or you'll just end up with a dusty model - you want to make sure the paint lands on the raised areas as much as possible.

You can then go in closer and add a 'highlight' using another burst - as you'll find, this has the unsurprising effect of making the model whiter ;) You can use this in your favour to create a highlight - this is the same as a wet highlight applied over a quick drybrush. Be careful though.

'Misting' is actually quite an intensive, quick process - the best thing to do is move around the model at speed, blasting where needed. Get all artsy with it, as if you're splashing a canvas. If you're timid about it then you're likely to spend too long on one side of the model.

Oh, and do it outside or somewhere very well ventilated, preferably with your nose and mouth covered - you'll find everything ends up with a dusty white coating, not least the inside of your lungs. Ah, the things we do to shave some time off eh.

The effect you get should show some muted colours underneath where you base coloured before misting, but be easily highlighted up using brushed-on white paint. You'll get a not-quite-monochrome effect because of the coloured sprays and basecoats showing through. Coloured glazes can then be employed to deepen the colours and add new effects.

Here is an example WIP shot of my Wood Elves after misting and highlighting (i.e. pre-glaze). You can see very subtle colours through the white.

ai90.photobucket.com_albums_k242_curseofbeers_Wood_20Elves_20S3356b566b7649d2c5c9efcb12a2e4bfe.webp


As far as light effect go, the key to this is using coloured sprays (Tamiya etc , though these currently aren't available) or airbrush. The effect is primarily a large-scale one (i.e. works better on units), but can be used on individual figures if you rehighlight carefully afterwards.

This is pretty much the last step in the army process, after basing etc. Spray from the direction of the light source, but not too close - you want to be about 6-8 inches behind the light source otherwise you'll completely drown the miniature. As with misting, short, sharp blasts are the way forward - timidity will just make the nozzle spit.

Once you have the colour down, you then go back and highlight - a mix of drybrushing and wetbrushing (i.e careful drybrushing with a more heavily loaded brush) works best at speed. Naturally, highlight more the closer you are to the light source, going up to white.

The paints you'll need to use will be a fairly logical choice based on the light effect colour. So for flames I use a mid-orange spray which comes out not far off Blazing Orange. After spraying, I tidy up and smooth out any faults with blazing orange, highlight fiery orange, then a tamiya yellow, then finally a bit of white for the light source and other prominent areas:

ai90.photobucket.com_albums_k242_curseofbeers_Wood_20Elves_20Sept_2007_CIMG1871.webp


Highlighting using spraying takes common sense and patience but is well worth getting as a technique. If you balls it up then it might seem all is lost, but with a bit of effort you can repaint and reglaze. I actually had to do this with my zombie giant (he of the disgusting toes :) ), and I think he turned out well:

ai90.photobucket.com_albums_k242_curseofbeers_Blood_20Dragons_20Sept_2007_CIMG1941.webp


Hope that helps, I'll probably do a more in-depth guide once I get time.

Cheers,

Andy

/end quote
 
My ultra fast, ultra simple technique is as follows...

1. Spray white...

2. Apply Griffon Sepia to the 'boney' areas...

er... no step three, your finished! Apart from painting the various weapons / clothing etc.

Works a treat. Try a tester model, you won't be disappointed (well maybe, you could be really fussy etc). Does genuinley work well. These new washes are more like the old dipping method.
 
Thanks for all the replies. It has definitely given me some food for thought.

I have tried a few test models, and the "standard" beige skeletons are a warmer look than I think I want, but I am definitely by some of the colder looks (like moonlit and misted). I'll try putting something together based on those.

-Silent Requiem
 

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