Ok so I saw a cool video on you tube about magnetizing Warhammer troops... it's easy I just wanted to know if you can spray or paint the thin sheet metal would the magnets be fine? Or would they stop sticking? Does anyone know?
Magnetizing!!!!!!
- Thread starter Hutobega
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Skeleton
If you paint the magnets, and leave without varnish, the paint will be removed within 2 ou 3 parts change... but if you put varnish, you loose some of the contact and some parts may fall. Best option is to leave the magnets untouched and put them on the model the best way you can to hide them.
Testing it now will let people know how good or bad this method works... Using strip magnet from a craft store. using 28gauge sheet steel and blah blah let's see. The magnet so far seems weak but we'll see! lol
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Skeleton
works on skellies so far in process of magnetizing my 39 man unit! i can flip them upside down (gently) and they don't fall off... If they are side ways I can be a lil rough with them and it works!!!! i might try getting some of those uber rare earth mags for metal guys though.
thanks for the update i was wondering about those flexible magnet sheets too. did you glue the model right to the sheet or did you glue the sheet under the gw base?
Burnanation
Crypt Horror
I used the sheets for my beastmen. I glued the sheets to the bottom of the model and then used an exacto knife to clean up the edges of the bases. For movement trays I bought sheet metal from Lowe's and used steel cutting shears to cut them down. I then used epoxy putty for the edges of the tray.
When I get around to magnetizing my VC's I'll use the rare earth mags and the steel movement trays.
When I get around to magnetizing my VC's I'll use the rare earth mags and the steel movement trays.
Ok heres how i did my Magnetizing!!!!!!! lol dramatic effect.
Step one find materials : Very thin sheet metal i found 28gauge at Lowes for about 10$ a sheet which is 1 foot by 2 feet. Then use Strip Magnet from any local craft store and some Dollar stores sell it for about 60 cents each roll.
I even cut a small piece of magnet at Lowes to see if it stuck well to the metal. and it did.
ok Step 2 Use your pushing tray to figure out how many square CM you need the piece of sheet metal to be... I should show pics.
Using Sheet metal cutter cut the sheet metal into the size you need it and make sure to have it a little smaller than the inside of your pushing tray (so you don't grab onto sharp edges when picking up your tray)
Glue it on with super glue and press down fairly hard to make it flat step 2 is done.
Step 3 cut small pieces of strip magnet to fit under your models bases (this really only works on plastics cause the magnets aren't super strong)
glue pieces under models base and let dry. once dry stick him to your pushing plate!!!!
Now keep going till whole unit (or army) is done... i will actually try to put step by step pics up if you all want it? I still have plenty to do! haha
hope this helps a little bit its fairly cheap and easy
Sheet Metal = 10$ or cheaper
Strip magnet= 50-70cents per roll 30 inches
Sheet Metal cutting tool= 13$
once tool is bought its just the sheet metal and strip magnet you'll ever need to buy ( oh and glue )
Step one find materials : Very thin sheet metal i found 28gauge at Lowes for about 10$ a sheet which is 1 foot by 2 feet. Then use Strip Magnet from any local craft store and some Dollar stores sell it for about 60 cents each roll.
I even cut a small piece of magnet at Lowes to see if it stuck well to the metal. and it did.
ok Step 2 Use your pushing tray to figure out how many square CM you need the piece of sheet metal to be... I should show pics.
Using Sheet metal cutter cut the sheet metal into the size you need it and make sure to have it a little smaller than the inside of your pushing tray (so you don't grab onto sharp edges when picking up your tray)
Glue it on with super glue and press down fairly hard to make it flat step 2 is done.
Step 3 cut small pieces of strip magnet to fit under your models bases (this really only works on plastics cause the magnets aren't super strong)
glue pieces under models base and let dry. once dry stick him to your pushing plate!!!!
Now keep going till whole unit (or army) is done... i will actually try to put step by step pics up if you all want it? I still have plenty to do! haha
hope this helps a little bit its fairly cheap and easy
Sheet Metal = 10$ or cheaper
Strip magnet= 50-70cents per roll 30 inches
Sheet Metal cutting tool= 13$
once tool is bought its just the sheet metal and strip magnet you'll ever need to buy ( oh and glue )
Burnanation
Crypt Horror
I am going to buy some for my metal models so they stick to the sheet as well. I will post as soon as i know how well they work...
Count Lasombra said:
Way way stronger .... but you pay a premium for that (depending on the size of magnet you get and volume you can pay 15-20 cents a magnet (canadian).
I have my units of Glade Guard mangetized... 1 mag glued in the bottem of the base. The tray is just a cut sheet of metal. You can not shake them off if you try.
I have the same sized magnet in the bottom of the Vampire Character with the giant wing .. he is currently stuck to the side (yeah side) of my fridge and not moving down ... (but you could shake him off for sure). That actually happend because I had him on top and he of course fell over and had to be repaired .. My wife thought the lesson would be not to put models up there.. she did not suspect the lesson would be to magnatize them to the top and side of the fridge
I am actually about to pick up a bunch of the flanged trays from www.shogunminiatures.com and Rare Earth Magnets and do my entire O&G army so that I can carry them around already set up (god how awesome that will be)...
Krys
Its nice to have movement trays made for you I'm just doing it the cheap way since i already have tons of trays sized to my unit sizes hehe. + sheet metal is cheap in separate sheets you just need to cut it. Which be careful cause it has sharp edges.
o so i sprayed the metal sheet and it works AMAZING!!!!!!! actually its better the minis don't slide around on the smooth surface as much! i'll try to start taking pictures and posting them like a step by step hehe. cause it's so easy and works great! cheap as hell too!
So got me rare earth magnets thanks to www.kjmagnetics.com... they work AMAZING!!!! not too strong lil tiny magnets that hold heavy pewter models in place. It's fantastic!
I actually magnetize every (fantasy) model I own. I used the website Hutobega just linked and got 500 ZD1 6mm x 1.5mm N35 Grade magnets (check the surplus section) for $20. They come to 5cents each...can get smaller amounts but they are ultra useful.
They fit perfectly into the base of 20mm and up fantasy bases, including characters' slotta bases on one side or the other.
As for the magnetic surface to use I tried both sheet steel, and steel paper. And let me tell you, steel paper rocks. It's a tad pricey at about $11 for 2 8x11 sheets (you can actually get quite a few trays done with that much tbh). However, it is ultra thin, simple to cut as a good pair of scissors should work easy (I used the tin snips I was working sheet steel with so it was nothing). While I haven't tried painting the steel paper yet, I'm pretty sure it will hold paint much better than a sheet of smooth metal as it is a rougher, matte surface.
You can find Steel Paper here: http://www.renaissanceink.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=10 for $10.95 per 2 8x11. I'm not sure if there is cheaper stuff to be had since it's very difficult to find this stuff as it is.
With this set up you can easily flip your trays upside down (just don't drop them like I did heh). Put them on terrain at any angle, etc.
HOWEVER, metal models are too heavy for this to work on them and will slide off at 10-20 degrees fairly easily. This could be one reason to use sheet steel over steel paper as the bond is far stronger (the models have a noticeable "snap" down to sheet steel, where is they kind of are just "attracted" to steel paper) and will allow you to do metal models inverted and they will stay.
Keep in mind, however, that using plastic dudes on sheet steel will likely see them getting damaged from you "pulling" them from their trays. Since the bond is stronger, it follows that removing the models requires more force and plastic models will likely eventually come apart with chronic pulling at the weakened bonds (skeleton necks and shoulders for example).
I would say to use steel paper for plastic guys, even with metal characters in there, and if you do have a full metal regiment feel free to use a bit of sheet steel instead as it's much more effective on the heavier models.
Have fun!
They fit perfectly into the base of 20mm and up fantasy bases, including characters' slotta bases on one side or the other.
As for the magnetic surface to use I tried both sheet steel, and steel paper. And let me tell you, steel paper rocks. It's a tad pricey at about $11 for 2 8x11 sheets (you can actually get quite a few trays done with that much tbh). However, it is ultra thin, simple to cut as a good pair of scissors should work easy (I used the tin snips I was working sheet steel with so it was nothing). While I haven't tried painting the steel paper yet, I'm pretty sure it will hold paint much better than a sheet of smooth metal as it is a rougher, matte surface.
You can find Steel Paper here: http://www.renaissanceink.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=10 for $10.95 per 2 8x11. I'm not sure if there is cheaper stuff to be had since it's very difficult to find this stuff as it is.
With this set up you can easily flip your trays upside down (just don't drop them like I did heh). Put them on terrain at any angle, etc.
HOWEVER, metal models are too heavy for this to work on them and will slide off at 10-20 degrees fairly easily. This could be one reason to use sheet steel over steel paper as the bond is far stronger (the models have a noticeable "snap" down to sheet steel, where is they kind of are just "attracted" to steel paper) and will allow you to do metal models inverted and they will stay.
Keep in mind, however, that using plastic dudes on sheet steel will likely see them getting damaged from you "pulling" them from their trays. Since the bond is stronger, it follows that removing the models requires more force and plastic models will likely eventually come apart with chronic pulling at the weakened bonds (skeleton necks and shoulders for example).
I would say to use steel paper for plastic guys, even with metal characters in there, and if you do have a full metal regiment feel free to use a bit of sheet steel instead as it's much more effective on the heavier models.
Have fun!
I just finished getting magnets on my VC army (GG,Skelies, Ghouls, Zombies). I have to say, not having my forces fly to the four winds during play is like playing a whole new game (one that is now much more fun!).
Since I am pressed on time, I opted for a ready made solution, and went with the magnetic base stickers and flexi steel sheets from Litko.
http://www.litkoaero.com/
The magnetic base bottoms apply like stickers, and are pretty solid (3 sessions of play). You can purchase 100 for around $12 US.
I then got the movement tray inserts, which come in packs for around $8 US, with inserts for 3 25x25 movement trays, and 2 Cav frontage size ones.
So far I've been pretty happy. I got through about 100 guys and their movement trays in less than an hour, right before a play session.
Let's see how well they continue to hold up
Since I am pressed on time, I opted for a ready made solution, and went with the magnetic base stickers and flexi steel sheets from Litko.
http://www.litkoaero.com/
The magnetic base bottoms apply like stickers, and are pretty solid (3 sessions of play). You can purchase 100 for around $12 US.
I then got the movement tray inserts, which come in packs for around $8 US, with inserts for 3 25x25 movement trays, and 2 Cav frontage size ones.
So far I've been pretty happy. I got through about 100 guys and their movement trays in less than an hour, right before a play session.
Let's see how well they continue to hold up