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I've noticed some people paint on the sprues before assembling and I'd like to know how they manage to do that without the glue then eating the paint? I'm using Humbrol Poly Cement and the last time I attempted that it made the paint run.
I don't paint on the sprue, but sometimes I make sub-assemblies and put on toothpicks for painting. Then you just have to be careful with the glue application. Are you using a dropper bottle or one with a brush? A brush gives more control if your glue is runny. It's also useful, but not necessary, to mask contact areas with small pieces of tape to get a stronger bond.
I'd recommend NOT painting on the sprues.Some people like it...for whatever reason.But once you clip them off you have to fix them.Highlighting can be wonky too...how do you decide where the lights hitting the model if it's still on the sprue? (that was rhetorical)
In fairness, there's a painter over on The Tyranid Hive who paints on the sprue but still gets excellent results. He does tidy the pieces up on the sprue first though and leaves only a single point of contact to remove while painting.
I'm sure a good painter could get good results like that..the problem is when you clip it off the sprue you cut thru the primer layer..and so you then have to give it a two layer bandaid.Just too much hassle for me.
I've painted certain things on the spruce like tanks tracks or grave stones. I have however assembled a model minus an arm that would have been hard to paint behind or under. I've painted the area I was concerned with then glued the arm in place.
I've painted on the sprue for zombies and skellies or other tons of core that needs to be painted. Mainly because it's easier and quicker to spray with primer and the paint gun.
Cut off the sprue and touch up takes a few seconds.
Back to the OP's starting topic. I use gorilla glue (super glue) after I've painted for some of those tougher models. Don't have any problems with running paint. I'll usually just file off the paint where the 2 pieces connect.
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