Tutorial: Painting Rusty Metal

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Crimson

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Jun 28, 2008
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I thought I'd share a guide which I've found useful with you from warhammer.org, originally posted by pulperspikehead. (spikehead here)
pulperspikehead said:
Some guys on frothers asked how I did the metals on this one:
ai185.photobucket.com_albums_x188_maximayres_img484a4f670be26.webp


Perhaps this tutorial might come in handy.

There goes the tutorial. Please excuse my meager presentation-Fu.

Weathered Metals

My aim on this mini was to combine the "grimy" aspects of metallic colors with the zenithal (positional) highlights found on NMM parts in order to get a weathered while "stylized" result.

At first place your bare metal mini under a strong light source and take a picture. This will help you later on as to where place reflections and shadows.

There are two principles to keep in mind:

-Thin your paints down so that they are nearly transparent. A wet palette is a must here. Baking paper, make-up pads and a plastic lid is all you need (Buying make-up pads gives you funny looks so grasp the opportunity to stock up on lip stick too.)

ai185.photobucket.com_albums_x188_maximayres_IMG_2624.webp

-It is far easier to darken a color than to lighten it up.

Silver areas

-Basecoat chainmail.
-Thin down some brownish orange and apply it in strokes towards the point where the deepest shadows are. The first strokes will be merely visible but the more strokes you apply the richer the graduation will get. Due to the combination of high dilution and minimum paint on the brush individual strokes will dry within seconds.
It´s basically "feathering". ( http://www.coolminiornot.com/article/aid/273 )
-Add some reddish brown and continue like above but minimize the space you are working on. The darker the paint the less area there is to apply it to.
-Continue this way until you reach a deep brown color.
-Thin down your base color and feather it where the shading process began
-Add some white to the chain mail and place light spots and highlight appropriate edges. Be careful here, More is less

Everything in one amateurish picture:
ai185.photobucket.com_albums_x188_maximayres_Tut1.webp
ai185.photobucket.com_albums_x188_maximayres_Tut1.webp

The arrows indicate the length of individual strokes.

Gold parts:
VMC Old Gold+ VMC Orage Brown base
Shade with Tamiya Clear+ VAir Burned Umber
Dark Shade with VMC Black Brown
Highlight with bsecolor+ White

Bronze parts:
Brazen Brass + mid Brown color
Shade with Tamiya Smoke
Highlight with basecolor and buff

Veridigis:
Mix up some Tamiya Smoke and VGC Vile Green and add this to the area in question. Add some Vile green and continue. These stages are just there to smooth everything a little bit
Use pure Vile Green around the rivets. Again less is more.

Some more examples:
ai185.photobucket.com_albums_x188_maximayres_img480b4c17c8e30.webp
 
Another user of Tamiya Smoke!!

One of my all time favourites, and so flexible in use too. Shade and 'ardcuat in a single swipe of the brush. I have used it for my zombies (looking or a dirty look), and also for my lizardmen (for the 'just out of the swamp' look, and doing them in bulk numbers for an event.
 
Great tutorial. I am definitely going to put this to use in not only my VC army but my wife's new Skaven army. Those filthy rats don't know how to care for their weapons. :grin:
 
I like the application it has to any piece of metal. About how much time did it take to paint the scythe to completion?

Great explanation and pictures too! Could you show the application to a rounded piece of metal like a buckler or breastplate.
 

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