Cockroach Colored Tyranids a Blackadder WIP

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The Sun King said:
Looks good, do you have any finished models to show yet?

No all of them are in the same stage of progress as I learn each step I apply it to each in turn. Right now I have: a Hive Tyrant(metal), a Carnifex, a Tyrannofex/Tervigon, a Tyrgon/Mawloc, and one each brood of Termagants, and Gargoyles all at the same level of completion paint wise.

Once I get the basic painting done I may forge ahead on one of the bigger models to completion.

Thanks for the reply.
 
What a Difference a Day Makes:

After yesterday's fiasco painting highlights I tried again this morning with acceptable results. I will have to touch up the dark after my German Camo Black Brown paint comes. Amazon sent the wrong colour than what I ordered and I didn't notice until this past weekend.

No Problem............

Anyway I acquired a bit of finesse over night and the highlights shaped up better

http://i.imgur.com/6kGsKI6.jpg
6kGsKI6l.webp


http://i.imgur.com/SB72GfD.jpg
SB72GfDl.webp


so well in fact that I attempted the Trygon carapace as well with better than hoped for results...............

http://i.imgur.com/q0Yi3g3.jpg
q0Yi3g3l.webp


I'm getting the hang of this I think.
 
Giant Silurian Centipede:

The more I work on this the more I am reminded of the giant centipede Arthropleura which attained a length of ten feet . The Trygon is quite a bit longer but most of it is tail which I consider cheating............

am_247367_6580464_125908.webp


Anyway I have finally put the finishing touches on the basic painting of the Trygon and am ready to apply the various coatings of orange wash, satin varnish, and an oil/brown wash so it's time to pause for photos.........

http://i.imgur.com/4l0nbS3.jpg
4l0nbS3l.webp


I should really have my head examined for practicing on my most expensive piece but it didn't come out that badly for a first effort considering I've only been using an airbrush for less than a month..........

http://i.imgur.com/JZ8mOjV.jpg
JZ8mOjVl.webp


I don't know what I was afraid of, the basics of airbrushing are relatively simple to pick up

http://i.imgur.com/WRGT6uC.jpg
WRGT6uCl.webp


Of course I had a good instructor in Jaro and all I did so far is copy his work..........

http://i.imgur.com/u1nqPMp.jpg
u1nqPMpl.webp


Now I need a course in photography, why did the colour change from red to green and back to red again with out changing the camera settings?
 
"Wanna See Everybody From Behind":

Okay three of the major players have their base coat applied. That leaves just the Tyrranofex and the three broods to base coat the carapace highlights. Hopefully today..................

http://i.imgur.com/fT2FLf2.jpg
fT2FLf2l.webp
 
The Broods:

I notice Jaro (whom I consider an artist) confines his projects to the larger models.

I would like to see him tackle smaller figures such as these Tyranid Broods. I find it impractical to attempt to paint the highlights on these with an airbrush so I went back to a technique I call dry brushing.

I painted the entire twenty two pieces with a few drops of paint and a medium sable brush but what I did is drag the brush from ridge to ridge instead of following the line of the ridges. This deposits a fine glaze of pigment on the high spots but doesn't look like a continuous line of paint.

http://i.imgur.com/8YZ2k2c.jpg
8YZ2k2cl.webp


I hope to get better pictures as the brown tones look washed out and blotchy in these images.

http://i.imgur.com/4dWCjwh.jpg
4dWCjwhl.webp


http://i.imgur.com/VOhTD8S.jpg
VOhTD8Sl.webp


http://i.imgur.com/nyseQa4.jpg
nyseQa4l.webp
 
Tyranidae:

My first attempt at orange glazing the highlights has produced mixed results. The recommended paint applies a nice and thin transparent coating to the light brown highlights:

http://i.imgur.com/RHI8bCz.jpg
RHI8bCzl.webp


http://i.imgur.com/CAgcTSR.jpg
CAgcTSRl.webp


The effect looks somewhat blotchy and needs touching up in my estimation but I am going to go ahead with the procedure on a few of the broods to see how they finish up.

What is particularly nice is the satin sheen that the orange spray give to the carapace.

http://i.imgur.com/zbcSIbs.jpg
zbcSIbsl.webp


Below is the only gargoyle to receive the treatment and I am very pleased with how that is turning out.

http://i.imgur.com/3pljzrV.jpg
3pljzrVl.webp
 
Gargoyles Have an air about them:

Well at least this step is half done. Making the wing membranes look like parchment is a bit of an involved process. After brushing a thin coat of Umbral Umber on the arms and finger bones using a combination of dry brushing, buffing and hard rubbing with my thumb I managed to get an appearance that have prompted some to ask what kind on glazing am I using.

http://i.imgur.com/PEWXKwU.jpg
PEWXKwUl.webp


In keeping with my policy of keeping nothing back......

Much as I hesitate to admit this the truth is I wet my thumb with saliva.

Ewhew! Yeah that's right, he said spit.

http://i.imgur.com/E7yx92d.jpg
E7yx92dl.webp


Face it, it could be worse...........

Never the less incorporating a bit of DNA into the bio-denizens seems almost poetic.

http://i.imgur.com/BEORZyF.jpg
BEORZyFl.webp


Wassamatter never heard of spit-shined shoes?
 
Never the less incorporating a bit of DNA into the bio-denizens seems almost poetic.

Accidentally read the post from the bottom up, was really relieved when I scrolled up to find that you were referring to spit.
 
Sanai said:
Never the less incorporating a bit of DNA into the bio-denizens seems almost poetic.

Accidentally read the post from the bottom up, was really relieved when I scrolled up to find that you were referring to spit.
:O:|:O

Those bugs look really nice Blackadder.
Realistic colour schemes always seem to work on the 'nids (I'm fully aware of the irony involved when talking about realism on a inter-galactic space gribbly of doom).
 
Thanks,

So I Went On Vacation to Florida:

And all I got was a lousy Bio-Titan

Judging by the responses I could have stayed a few more weeks in Florida but I hurried home with this beauty in my hot little hands. There are significant possibilities in the Florida Flea Markets.

http://i.imgur.com/92j5NJl.jpg
92j5NJll.jpg


So it was a bit damaged a few chips here and there but a Hierophant? Come on what can be wrong with a half price Hierophant?

back after a week with a Tyranid bio-titan; does it get any better than this?
 
Like a Kid in a Candy Store.........

The Blackadder lacks discipline. The problem is I want it all jumping from one project to another but that's the way I work otherwise I just get bored so bear with me eventually all these projects will be completed just maybe not in our lifetimes ;)

anyway I have fun and where's the harm in that.

This model is probably the easiest FW production I've seen; very few parts and the moulding flaws and flash enhance and blend with the model sculpting making it so you really can't make a mistake.

Okay so the tools I used to clean the castings beside the standard razor saw, #11 Xacto blade and 'Utility Knife' are:

To properly assemble this model it would also be prudent to have the following tools to remove the unwanted flash and vents.

The rotary cutters in the foreground I use in my Dremel; I have the cordless model which saves you fighting with the electric cord and speed control which my previous Dremel had and was a big pain in the @$$. The freedom of cordless is the better way to go and the battery lasts a long time between charges.

http://i.imgur.com/m0qkIWW.jpg
m0qkIWWl.webp


Back to the cutter bits the three to the left are actually dentist drills I got from my dentist as they were too worn to use for drilling teeth although they are fine for plastic.

Also shown is the nail clipper diagonal cutters I use to remove sprues and vents and to the far left the steel emery boards flat and curved for sanding and rounding.

Note on the head the only problem with the model I bought is that the leaf-like structure on the side of the tongue is totally missing and I'll have to sculpt a replacement. All the other chips and bits were with the model and have been re-glued in place.

The image below shows the tail mount with the moulding sprue completely removed and the tail likewise undercut so the two chitin plates match and overlap perfectly.

http://i.imgur.com/V6LzSfL.jpg
V6LzSfLl.webp


I am going to pin the tail to the body with steel coat hanger wire when the time comes to mount it.

Other than that the model is ready to prime.
 
A Sow's Ear:

I begin to make a silk purse of this abomination.........

Now that I have cleaned up most of the casting flaws it's time to address the broken detail which while it would be noticeable to virtually no one my particular form of mania will never be satisfied with imperfections no matter how invisible. Don't you just feel for Mrs Blackadder?

http://i.imgur.com/rq5u6gT.jpg
rq5u6gTl.webp


The red rectangle indicates where the very tips of the ribs broke away a few square millimeters of resin. I made up a strong batch of 24 hour aircraft quality A4 Epoxy and replaced the four missing tips. After the epoxy had hardened a few hours so it was barely sticky to the touch I hand moulded the tips to an over-sized facsimile of the errant rib-ends.

A bit later I attempted the skeletal striations but the epoxy is still a bit too sticky.

Meanwhile the edge of the front fumarole suffered a bit of damage so I built that up as well with an excess of epoxy that when hardened can be sanded and carved into shape.

http://i.imgur.com/5NcUS0x.jpg
5NcUS0xl.webp


Finally I addressed the missing tongue component which required a complete mirror sculpting of the opposite piece. Again I made the initial missing part over-sized and allowed to harden then shaped the bit and when this is dry I will final sand it to the desired size and secure with cyano acetate glue.

http://i.imgur.com/ZTPcIJz.jpg
ZTPcIJzl.webp


This of course is an over exertion for such trivial objects but the practice is the thing. Someday I may need to replace or repair some critical component and the knowledge I can do it will serve me well.
 
Nid Week:

There's a few good Hierophant assembly videos on You-tube and the best I've found is "Nid Week" except for the hour plus run time it is a detailed account of the assembly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlO46OttB34

I can offer one improvement on his excellent discourse. The Blackadder has no illusion about the size of his fingers and watching the struggle the assembler is having picking up and installing the extremely tiny spurs on the underbelly I suggest picking up the spur by the tip by sticking a sharp straight pin in the tip of the spur making it easy to pick up align and install in the tiny cup receptacle on the model. I use Industrial strength Cyano-acrylate glue that dries in seconds and holds strong. The pin can be pressed on to hold the spur secure until the glue holds.

http://i.imgur.com/2aw7EFK.jpg
2aw7EFKl.webp


The image above shows the smallest spur with the pin still impaling the tip. Once dried the pin is easily removed and the microscopic pinhole will be filled with the painted finish.
 
Repair and Detailing:

someone asked me how I repaired the damage on this second hand Hierophant. I used aircraft grade 24 hour epoxy A4 Metalset available on the internet just google, 'A4 Metalset'. The stuff I have expired years ago but is still viable for model work although I suspect it has lost it's original strength for Military Aircraft Spec's.

http://i.imgur.com/sulOu1m.jpg
sulOu1ml.webp


It mixes one to one and by varying the ratio you can lengthen or decrease the curing time. I increase the hardener component so the malleability is decreased to about four hours. Good enough for non-gov'ment work.

In the videos linked above the author installed the forward fumarole in a less than professional manner with ruddy great gaps in the joint to be filled in later with some sort of filler. This gives a weakened joint that may fail after your beautiful paint job is finished causing a glaring seam in your otherwise flawless finish.

http://i.imgur.com/PeWIZsz.jpg
PeWIZszl.webp


I used the Metalset which is both filler and cement in one and has the added benefit of being sculpt-able in it's latter drying period and has very much the same strength as the original resin so in effect the piece is welded to the body.

After the epoxy was completely dried I scoured striations to meld the base with the fumarole with a dull #11 Xacto blade so the seam is virtually invisible.

http://i.imgur.com/F0Minii.jpg
F0Miniil.webp
 
Restoring a Basket Case:

I strongly suspect there is a bit of a sadistic streak in the FW modelers; they seem to have made this model much harder than is necessary to assemble almost as though they want the purchasers to botch the assembly. While some of the spurs might have been necessary as separate pieces the micro tiny ones were unnecessary in my opinion and were included only to confound the modeler and enhance the part count.

As you may have noticed that after tedious cleaning I primed the entire model with a uniform coat of flat grey primer. There is a reason for this. The model being cast in two colours makes it hard to spot flaws and crevasses were grey resin affixes to the white body component. You will note on the video that even the purported professional author's spurs are misaligned even when contrasted with the white body part. This will become more apparent when the model is painted a more uniform colour and the spurs are picked out as in mine where they will be blue/black. By painting everything the same colour the eye can more readily see the misalignment and correct it before the glue dries.

Above I mentioned using a pin to pick up and place the millimeter sized spurs in place but even that proved inadequate. I now am impaling the the insidiously microscopic spurs on the tip of a NEW # 11 Xacto blade much as I use to install individual rivets on my scratch builts.
 
Head Appendages:

The cheek appendages mount in the recesses below and aft of the eye and judging by the way they are moulded are supposed to angle down a degree or two. There is a left and right mandible so care must be taken that the sculpting of the cheek continues into the sculpting of the mandible, if it doesn't you have them upside down and on the wrong side.

There are square holes in the cheek recesses but no corresponding pins on the mandibles so I drilled and implanted my own 1,5 MM styrene square stock which serves to align and strengthen the glue joint.

http://i.imgur.com/sY7kJLG.jpg
sY7kJLGl.webp


Note the strip sticking out of the right cheek the left mandible already dry mounted.

Here you see the variety of tools I used to fair the mandibles into the cheeks so the glue seam is less visible. Note the cyanoacrylate glue I am using, it bonds super strong dries quickly and is thick enough to be useful as a seam filler that can be sanded and carved

http://i.imgur.com/hxFUPdU.jpg
hxFUPdUl.webp


The trailing edge of the mandibles require some fairing in in spite of my efforts but that could not be helped. the Needle files and diamond files made short work of the indiscretions.

http://i.imgur.com/YwmdaWF.jpg
YwmdaWFl.webp
 
Piece of Cake

As far mas FW models are concerned getting this Hierophant ready for painting was a piece of cake. Right now it is sanded,cleaned, primed and assembled apart from the sub assemblies in a couple of work sessions and it would have been done sooner except I had to fabricate replacement parts. Maybe all totaled 10 hours work.

You can't tell from the photos but the top surface is grey primer and the underside of most of the components are primer white over grey primer.

http://i.imgur.com/5jMhGHb.jpg
5jMhGHbl.webp


http://i.imgur.com/xdVStx4.jpg
xdVStx4l.webp


In the images below the head is just stuck on with tack putty I'll be painting that seperately

http://i.imgur.com/MF9EpDf.jpg
MF9EpDfl.webp


Note the hole in the second from the front arm socket. For once FW put the vent core in the right area so it can be used as a ready made assembly pin. taking advantage of that will give me a good solid leg mount.

http://i.imgur.com/kN0iOT7.jpg
kN0iOT7l.webp


I'm sure that was purely unintentional or FW would have lopped it off before shipping. Buggers!
 
We're Gonna Need a Bigger Boat!

Or a least a bigger pipeline to a paint source. I just blew through my entire stash of 'Khaki Brown' base coat paint and I haven't even finished base-coating this beast. I started with full strength "Vallejo 'Model Air' " but ended up diluting it 50/50 or I wouldn't get the basic body parts covered with the what I had on hand. Fortunately I have Amazon prime so the needed paint should arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile I can proceed with the accent P3 'Umbral Umber' brown on much of the model so I won't be held back too much. I have half a vial of that left so not enough for the Chitin back plated but enough to add shadow to the underbelly, legs, head, and tail.

http://i.imgur.com/IDGjvFj.jpg
IDGjvFjl.webp


I think this beast will work well with the colour scheme I have selected but its size may require a lot more detailed highlights for the exposed tendons and connective tissue.

http://i.imgur.com/oBjkAqu.jpg
oBjkAqul.webp
 
The Roadkill Titan:

Looking for all the world like a roadkill desiccate carcass on the side of the byway. This is after the second coat of ultra thinned Umberal Umber which finally penetrated to the sublevels of the connective tissues.

http://i.imgur.com/PLSVxz8.jpg
PLSVxz8l.webp


This model is an amazing piece of casting. The ribs seem to go down at least two levels below the surface openings between the ribs. How they managed to extricate the mould from the casting is beyond me. Perhaps a variant on the 'Lost Wax' method.
 
Harridan Hijinks

No doubt that GW/FW (tongue in cheekedly)named their flying Titan Harridan in deference to irate spouses haranguing about the money wasted on such childish nonsense. Never mind that she has a closet full of dresses and other apparel that was only worn once but can't be again because everyone has seen her in it while you still wearing the same suit you graduated in and she changes her hair style/colour as often as you change your socks. I consider myself a patron of the arts and the FW Tyranid Titans are definitively that, art.

With that rational set aside I set about preparing the Harridan for priming and painting.

The first order was to modify the wing mount recess to accommodate the excellent root casting vent so thoughtfully provided by the casting.

http://i.imgur.com/VrLXw8d.jpg
VrLXw8dl.webp


After squaring up the plug I sketched in the approximate position for the plug recess. I want my wings detachable you see as the model wingtips are so delicate i'm afraid they might break off in handling
 
Rhymes With Orange:

I went a bit overboard with the orange highlights on the Hive Tyrant and (what are these little dudes) Ah yes Termagants. so before I backtrack and repaint the legs I took some pictures.

Airbrushing highly thinned orange kind of sneaks up on you and the orange looks much more intense once it dries so use it sparingly because if it looks right when its wet it'll be too orange when it dries.

http://i.imgur.com/b4YfYbU.jpg
b4YfYbUl.webp


While I'm waiting for the Umbral Umber Formula P3 paint to come it's a good time to bring the Hormagaunt brood up to speed. I'm trying to paint everything at once so as my technique improves everything will be at the same level of accomplishment.

Here we see a close up of my first work Termagants left and my most recent work yesterday the Hormagaunts which still need the carapace fringes highlighted and the orange glazing.....

http://i.imgur.com/8ElvTYh.jpg
8ElvTYhl.webp


Termagants much too orange!

http://i.imgur.com/x9s66CU.jpg
x9s66CUl.webp


and the basic painted Hormagaunts............

http://i.imgur.com/JiRX0Ed.jpg
JiRX0Edl.webp
 
Oh Yeah:

Finally got my paint yesterday and started painting the upper scoots this morning.

I had serious reservations whether this huge beast would lend itself well to the cockroach theme until I saw these images. Oh Yeah, that's what I talk'n 'bout...........

I painted both sides with about 20 drops of thinned Umbral Umber and I wore my index finger out holding down the trigger; I had to switch to my thumb but the first coat is finally on.

http://i.imgur.com/ilOfHs8.jpg
ilOfHs8l.webp



http://i.imgur.com/CX6xcIJ.jpg
CX6xcIJl.webp


I still have a concern if the Harridan will look good in brown. I can't do the entire top surface of the wings all one colour and they're too thick for the parchment technique. I'm thinking maybe tiger stripes
 
A Tale of Two Titans:

Last night I couldn't get the airbrush to work right so I soaked the components in brush cleaner overnight and everything is working fine this morning.

The image below shows the two Bio-titans bodies, the Hierophant with a solid brown carapace and the Harridan with the beginning of a tiger striped effect that I am experimenting with; I think it needs an intermediate stripe on each scote.

http://i.imgur.com/wduE5xH.jpg
wduE5xHl.webp


The image below shows the Hierophant and the bottom view of it's head which I am having so difficulty. I left the top of the head grey and I feel that if I make it all brown it won't look right as the head is so small in proportion to the body it will be overwhelmed if only picked out in brown.

http://i.imgur.com/oWvF8Dv.jpg
oWvF8Dvl.webp


The legs and weapons on the other hand are coming along splendidly. At the moment they only have two colours sprayed on but the airbrush allows such variety that they look like they required more colours and work than they actually did.

http://i.imgur.com/wIRYPN6.jpg
wIRYPN6l.webp


For someone who in January could not even get paint through the nozzle of an airbrush my technique has improved dramatically. An affect that I can attribute to the excellent "Precision" AirBrush shown in the images.

For thirty bucks US it's an astounding airbrush and bargain plus the shipping is free.
 
A Harridan Cannot Fold Its Wings:

It seems to me a Harridan must fly it's whole life. It has no legs to spring into the air as some birds do or sprint forward to gather ground speed so the wings can assist take off as larger birds such as the Albatross do. Add to that the carapace interferes with the ability to even fold the wings let alone flap. The small rear appendages are not sufficiently long enough to allow the wings to flap in close proximity to the ground so a static flapping takeoff is out of the question as well.

So the scenario is the Harridan is launched from the hive Mother-ship, do what Harridans do and somehow get back to the mother-ship where there are no doubt cradles that house the Harridan where not in active service.

That said this model and the Hierophant is the simplest FW models imaginable. I bought and painted both in less than two weeks of sporadic attention in which I also cleaned and prepped two Warhounds and drove to and from Florida and attended a Baptism.

Below are images for your edification and probably need no explanation:

http://i.imgur.com/XjZ1Bap.jpg
XjZ1Bapl.webp

http://i.imgur.com/2UMV0ba.jpg
2UMV0bal.webp

http://i.imgur.com/z1OtvhD.jpg
z1OtvhDl.webp

http://i.imgur.com/wWqjVo8.jpg
wWqjVo8l.webp

http://i.imgur.com/rfZbm0a.jpg
rfZbm0al.webp
 

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