Dude, I love the sword! Incredible how many ways there are to paint magical effect, and most of them look so uniqe and cool! Very lovely...Like the detail work you did! A nearly realistic look, I really really like it!
Joex's Vampire Log
- Thread starter Joex48
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Phenomenal.
The only suggestion I'd make (and I only make it because you seem to be very concious of small details and accuracy) is that glyph on the front of the captured dwarf is an Orc glyph and if this guy's been captured by VCs you might want to glue a different glyph over the top of it. And perhaps replace the Orc head hanging from the pole with a Dwarf head? And again, I only mention any of this because your models have so much attention to detail.
I wish I had the skill and patience to put this kind of work into my models.
The only suggestion I'd make (and I only make it because you seem to be very concious of small details and accuracy) is that glyph on the front of the captured dwarf is an Orc glyph and if this guy's been captured by VCs you might want to glue a different glyph over the top of it. And perhaps replace the Orc head hanging from the pole with a Dwarf head? And again, I only mention any of this because your models have so much attention to detail.
I wish I had the skill and patience to put this kind of work into my models.
Thanks mate!
The dwarf is (rather unfortunately) not actually part of my VC army, but rather part of an Armies on Parade project I'm working on involving 'Desert Night Goblins' (I won't give too much away at the moment
erv: ) but the board is on hold until I get off to Uni, which is in September, so don't expect any updates on them either
I'm considering having all the Skeleton eyes glow green, like the Necromancer's skulls, however first thing's first I wanna finish my Zombies, and base my 1000 points. Not long to go, then I can start some gaming again!
The dwarf is (rather unfortunately) not actually part of my VC army, but rather part of an Armies on Parade project I'm working on involving 'Desert Night Goblins' (I won't give too much away at the moment
erv: ) but the board is on hold until I get off to Uni, which is in September, so don't expect any updates on them either I'm considering having all the Skeleton eyes glow green, like the Necromancer's skulls, however first thing's first I wanna finish my Zombies, and base my 1000 points. Not long to go, then I can start some gaming again!
Kingside_Bishop
Black Knight
I really like the detailing on the cloak, makes me want to try that! Also, I had a look, and I love your summoning portal in the ground a few pages back! Truly awesome!
Joex48 said:Cheers guys! I'll paint anything to avoid these hundreds of Zombies staring at mehaha
I actually can't wait till I can start painting my normal dudes. Why do you not like to paint zombies? They look fairly easy to paint to me... maybe I'm wrong, haven't painted any yet.
Ah no, they're pretty quick and easy to paint, and pretty fun too. Just due to the numbers it can get a little mind numbing. It's a catch 22 really. You want to paint whole regiments at a time, so that any colours you mix match, but you also want to paint say 10 from each unit just to keep things fresh. But I left myself 50 Zombies to paint! All it takes is a night in and a couple of good movies and I'll crank them out though!
You'd best get yourself a WIP up haha
You'd best get yourself a WIP up
hahaI've used the same colour mix for months when I was painting my small high elf army. The vallejo and citadel paints can be stored for a loooong time before they dry out, as long as you preserve them well.
Haha, I love elbow deep and intestine lasso! I very much like when there are such hidden characterful bits in a unit 
Good job with them overall - i like how the colour scheme works and the bloddy accents - also bonus points for some love for GW zombies 
Also, I agree with the catch22 thing - I always try to paint whole hordes and then I'm mad about having to paint almost every little thing 50 times. But it is surely nice when they are finished
Good job with them overall - i like how the colour scheme works and the bloddy accents - also bonus points for some love for GW zombies Also, I agree with the catch22 thing - I always try to paint whole hordes and then I'm mad about having to paint almost every little thing 50 times. But it is surely nice when they are finished
Emicrania
Wight King
Man this post really give me the lust to start my army,awesome job!
Are the base from gw or is plasticard?
Are the base from gw or is plasticard?
I want a perverted Lady and the tramp spaghetti-gut-scene with two zombies! :rofl2: I have a feeling this could fit here! A lovely zombo unit mate!
Deadboytat2
Zombie
You certainly inspire me as well. Already ordered a screaming bell base on ebay to make a zombiescene with. Too bad I've never actually used milliput before, but you gotta start somewhere right?
Good looking models, looking forward to your next update.
Good looking models, looking forward to your next update.
Cheers mate! Yeah everybody's gotta start somewhere! Though Milliput is fairly forgiving, which is nice. Just don't use much water, it turns it quite runny like clay...
Anyway, another update! While I'm waiting for my Milliput to arrive, I figured I should begin rusting up my 1000 points, to save as big a job at the end of 2400... I just wrote a tutorial up for the Warhammer tumblr blog that I'm part of, but I figured I'd get the pictures (and might as well get the tutorial up) in here as well!
First thing’s first, to do this you’ll need 4 paints, 5 if you’re doing blood. And they are:
1. Leadbelcher
2. Aggrax Earthshade
3. Typhus Corrosion
4. Ryza Rust
5. BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD (sorry, I can’t help but shout it…)
And here’s our starting point. A sword, which has been basecoated with Leadbelcher, and washed with Earthshade.
The next step is to begin rusting, by using Typhus Corrosion. Typhus Corrosion is like a wash, but thicker, and it has a little bit of texture to it. So use it sparingly, using whichever brush you see fit for the area. You can't really go wrong with a standard brush for this though. I know it sounds obvious, but only put it where you want to rust (so usually on select patches) if you want to rust the whole thing, like me (since these skeletons are like old… really old… old as balls…) then just cover the whole thing nice and thinly with it, and you should then have this:
Now here’s the fun bit (and by fun, I mean it's the bit that makes the most difference. Which to me is always the fun bit...) Pull out your drybrush, some tissue, and Ryza Rust. For those of you who don’t know how to drybrush, you simply get some paint on your brush, and wipe it onto the tissue until very little paint remains, then move it quickly and lightly over the model repeatedly, depositing colour at the high points.
Ryza Rust is a dry paint, meaning it’s thick, and designed for drybrushing, but that also means it’s quite a light colour, so it’s best to start slow, as a very bright orange can build up if you’re not careful. Once you’re done drybrushing, you should have something that looks (hopefully) like this:
Next is optional, but I find it adds a great effect. For anyone who’s seen rust on anything that still sees use (so like these swords, armour, even your kitchen scissors) you’ll notice that the iron oxide (rust) chips away very easily, revealing shiny metal underneath (Well that's if it’s recent, so the rust is only around the surface. If it’s old rust it’ll just eat through your sword and probably snap it in two after the first swing…)
So with that in mind, I then went over with some Leadbelcher again using a detail brush, paying close attention where, and what direction, the sword would strike people/things, as that would determine where the rust would’ve chipped from. That leads now to the picture below:
This is now the last step, and like the step before, is optional. But this is if you want to add blood to the weapon. Personally I wouldn’t recommend it on every weapon, as it looks too overdone. But on the occasional weapon it’s a very nice feature. For this, you simply get BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD *ahem* sorry… again… and brush it up in parallel strokes, that run the direction of the weapon hit.
It’s tricky to put into words, but the picture below should explain it. Once that’s done, just apply it a little more thickly near the edge to give it some depth, and that’s the blood done!
And finally, here’s a quick photo dump of some other examples of the rust, this time on some armour and another sword!
Well I hope this was helpful to those of you who took the time to read it, now if you need me, I’m off to go rust up a lot more models
Anyway, another update! While I'm waiting for my Milliput to arrive, I figured I should begin rusting up my 1000 points, to save as big a job at the end of 2400... I just wrote a tutorial up for the Warhammer tumblr blog that I'm part of, but I figured I'd get the pictures (and might as well get the tutorial up) in here as well!
First thing’s first, to do this you’ll need 4 paints, 5 if you’re doing blood. And they are:
1. Leadbelcher
2. Aggrax Earthshade
3. Typhus Corrosion
4. Ryza Rust
5. BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD (sorry, I can’t help but shout it…)
And here’s our starting point. A sword, which has been basecoated with Leadbelcher, and washed with Earthshade.
The next step is to begin rusting, by using Typhus Corrosion. Typhus Corrosion is like a wash, but thicker, and it has a little bit of texture to it. So use it sparingly, using whichever brush you see fit for the area. You can't really go wrong with a standard brush for this though. I know it sounds obvious, but only put it where you want to rust (so usually on select patches) if you want to rust the whole thing, like me (since these skeletons are like old… really old… old as balls…) then just cover the whole thing nice and thinly with it, and you should then have this:
Now here’s the fun bit (and by fun, I mean it's the bit that makes the most difference. Which to me is always the fun bit...) Pull out your drybrush, some tissue, and Ryza Rust. For those of you who don’t know how to drybrush, you simply get some paint on your brush, and wipe it onto the tissue until very little paint remains, then move it quickly and lightly over the model repeatedly, depositing colour at the high points.
Ryza Rust is a dry paint, meaning it’s thick, and designed for drybrushing, but that also means it’s quite a light colour, so it’s best to start slow, as a very bright orange can build up if you’re not careful. Once you’re done drybrushing, you should have something that looks (hopefully) like this:
Next is optional, but I find it adds a great effect. For anyone who’s seen rust on anything that still sees use (so like these swords, armour, even your kitchen scissors) you’ll notice that the iron oxide (rust) chips away very easily, revealing shiny metal underneath (Well that's if it’s recent, so the rust is only around the surface. If it’s old rust it’ll just eat through your sword and probably snap it in two after the first swing…)
So with that in mind, I then went over with some Leadbelcher again using a detail brush, paying close attention where, and what direction, the sword would strike people/things, as that would determine where the rust would’ve chipped from. That leads now to the picture below:
This is now the last step, and like the step before, is optional. But this is if you want to add blood to the weapon. Personally I wouldn’t recommend it on every weapon, as it looks too overdone. But on the occasional weapon it’s a very nice feature. For this, you simply get BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD *ahem* sorry… again… and brush it up in parallel strokes, that run the direction of the weapon hit.
It’s tricky to put into words, but the picture below should explain it. Once that’s done, just apply it a little more thickly near the edge to give it some depth, and that’s the blood done!
And finally, here’s a quick photo dump of some other examples of the rust, this time on some armour and another sword!
Well I hope this was helpful to those of you who took the time to read it, now if you need me, I’m off to go rust up a lot more models
Joex48 said:
That's a good result, with the rust effect. I won't be using it myself though, I'm going with a more slick design.
I have a question about the milliput, and I'm asking it here, since you're answering most of my questions on modelling anyway:
I have to rearm 10 graveguard, they have hand weapons/shield, and they need to have great weapons (which I already have). However, when I break them off with the knife, there is no pin left to attach the great weapon hand to, would milliput work to make a new pin (it's hidden anyway, so it won't matter what it looks like), or should I use a different material?
I also need to rearm 1 skeleton command group, but that's probably the same 'problem'.
The Milliput would work to make a pin, but the arms would only be held by super glue (plastic glue won't work on milliput) so I'd advise either using a small offcut of plastic to remake the pin, getting a small hobby drill, drilling into the body where the pin was, and inserting a paperclip (literally called 'pinning') or just gluing them to the body without the pin (plastic glue does make a very strong bond, even on a small point of contact, since it melts the plastic.
Milliput is a solution, but there's plenty of solutions to the problem! Personally, I'd try it without any pin at all. And if it does have trouble staying attached, I'd probably use a drill and a paperclip, as it'd be stronger than Milliput. Mainly because there's 2 break points. There's where the milliput attaches to the old peg's 'stump' and there's where the milliput attaches to the arm socket. Ideally there'd only be one break point on something that's already quite thin like the arm joint.
Hope this helped!
Milliput is a solution, but there's plenty of solutions to the problem! Personally, I'd try it without any pin at all. And if it does have trouble staying attached, I'd probably use a drill and a paperclip, as it'd be stronger than Milliput. Mainly because there's 2 break points. There's where the milliput attaches to the old peg's 'stump' and there's where the milliput attaches to the arm socket. Ideally there'd only be one break point on something that's already quite thin like the arm joint.
Hope this helped!
Good idea, I'll have to try that. I obviously already tried to glue them together without any pin, but the graveguard bodies have small spheres on the shoulders that stick out quite a bit (skeletons as well btw). The difficult thing about this, is that the great weapon arms have to be facing inwards, to hold the two hands on the weapon. If it was the other way around, converting GW into shield (who would want to do that though? ) it would've probably worked.
) it would've probably worked.