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Blackadders WIP Warlord Titan

Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
637
#51
untitled_musketeer said:
This is looking sweet pal! I can't help but wonder what happened to your Thunderhawk project?
I haven't lost interest with the T'hawk but am resting after the very tedious engine build.
 
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#53
Well I did have to cut the upper legs down again another 4MM all around. I installed the skin (AGAIN) and am working on the detail.

I made a couple of jigs to facilitate the assembly first a cutting jig so the zipper-like trim is homogeneous and equally spaced.

And a small aligning jig so the truncated pieces are aligned with their opposite number.

DS has 9 sets up the back of the leg but I got ten with approximately the same spacing so either his are larger or his legs are shorter or he isn't as anal about the spacing. :D



http://i.imgur.com/TxC3n.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/VS9QD.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/OXFmS.jpg

Cutting jig

http://i.imgur.com/F0DbE.jpg
proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FF0DbEl.jpg&hash=ce6328dc3b32ec4b433396f59a0de507

Aligning jig
 

Tawg

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#54
Nice, nice; I feel like even with the jigs for guide lines, it would be fairly easy to make cuts not so symmetrical by hand.. or at least I feel like I would be having problems..

Are the greaves, the armored flaps that come out, going to be move able? Like lay against the leg and flair out when in battle?

I dunno what the design calls for, but it looks like that might be the case.
 
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#55
Tawg said:
Nice, nice; I feel like even with the jigs for guide lines, it would be fairly easy to make cuts not so symmetrical by hand.. or at least I feel like I would be having problems..
It's really difficult to make a bad cut when using the jig. As long as you keep the chisel relatively vertical the cut should be true to a hundredth of a MM. I cut most of these while having my evening Martini.

Are the greaves, the armored flaps that come out, going to be move able? Like lay against the leg and flair out when in battle?
Interesting question; I wasn't aware the outer greaves were deployable.
 
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Dec 7, 2010
Messages
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#56
I use Ambroid ProWeld when I can get it. I keep it in a Tamiya bottle because it's less prone to tipping and the fine tipped brush wastes a lot less solvent (Its really not a glue so much as a plastic melter.)

For really large surfaces I use Testors red or blue tubed styrene cement. I see little difference between the two other than the toxicity of the red but I've never ben afacked bi iet myslef.


Hmmm.......... I seem to have experienced a flurry of activity this weekend completing the basic upper leg structure and adding a bit of detail.

Time to take stock and see where I've gone wrong.

One step forward and two steps back seems to be my mantra.....................


http://i.imgur.com/QrumW.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/Ldi0k.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/wCBgI.jpg
 

Chaos_Born

Master Necromancer
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#57
I find it is usually helpful to assume that you've gone wrong at every stage when attempting a big project, that way you check everything and so you don't have to go back and fix stuff:thumbsup:

How long do you reckon this bad boy is going to take to make? Also have you thought about the painting of it, ie are you going to paint it in bits or try and do so once it's assembled?
 

Tawg

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#58
Oh, I don't know if they are deploy able, but just.. their form and function would seem like they'd be deploy able. It would make sense to collapse them for easier movement when not in a combat zone, plus since they are essentially just flaps of metal they remind me of things like.. the Yew/pitch flaps on a plane or that sorta thing.

It certainly might not be worth the work to try and put that in though, because it'll almost always want to be shown off as the 'In combat' mode I'm sure, you know, to look more impressive.
 
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#59
Chaos_Born said:
I find it is usually helpful to assume that you've gone wrong at every stage when attempting a big project, that way you check everything and so you don't have to go back and fix stuff:thumbsup:

How long do you reckon this bad boy is going to take to make? Also have you thought about the painting of it, ie are you going to paint it in bits or try and do so once it's assembled?
Lucie which was in reality a much more difficult build took me the better part of two years. I can't see this taking that long as the hardest parts i.e. the feet and joints are ostensibly done. The rest is just simple construction and detailing. I intend to render this as close a duplicate to the Dave Smith Warlord as I possibly can albeit pose-able so once it is built it will be camouflaged ludicrous as that seems; Ala mode DS.
 
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Messages
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#61
Tawg said:
Oh, I don't know if they are deploy able, but just.. their form and function would seem like they'd be deploy able. It would make sense to collapse them for easier movement when not in a combat zone, plus since they are essentially just flaps of metal they remind me of things like.. the Yew/pitch flaps on a plane or that sorta thing.

It certainly might not be worth the work to try and put that in though, because it'll almost always want to be shown off as the 'In combat' mode I'm sure, you know, to look more impressive.
I'll admit that the deployable armour is enticing but the efficacy is dubious. It seems the un-deployed armour is more effective than the deployed as far as protecting the leg mechanisms; still your idea has a certain merit and I'll consider it.

Thanks,

EB
 

Sanai

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#62
I don't think Warlord leg armour moves at all


Looks like just thick armour plate- putting hinges on it so it can fold back would create weak spots in the armour.

Though when you see one in space marine, the leg armour being an angled plate on the front has been totally abandoned in the game- though whether the Invictus is even a completed warlord or not is debatable.
 
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#63
I appreciate the above post the image is astounding. I can't help thinking that the model is based on the DS rendering.

That said:

The Blackadder is in his glory. I relish doing the fine detail. Well this project is fraught with minute detail some of which is smaller than the pixel resolution in the images I have.

You're going to have to look close (If you're so inclined I won't presume my work is worth more than a causal glance.) to see where the changes are in the detail. I'm particularly pleased with the piping on the edge of the hip plate reinforcement which is literally a thread of styrene 0.4 MM by 0.75 MM. Strips so fine as to be ephemeral when full strength ProWeld is applied. I used de-volatilized Proweld to keep it from disappearing. The cog components on the ankle quadrant (sic) are a gimmee.
Note that the strips on either side of the Bow-tie like trim which I presume serve some utilitarian function.

The Knee plate reinforcements are in progress at the moment............

http://i.imgur.com/Y61a8.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/YDhLP.jpg
 

Cthulhu

Grave Guard
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Jan 22, 2012
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#64
The amount of detail you are putting into this is incredible:| So far, it looks like it'll become one of the best warlords ever.
 
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#65
A poor showing this week I'm afraid, my real job workload was staggering but I did manage to rebuild the front of the knee joint (Why does it look like a marshmallow Easter peep?) and add a lot of basic detail.

God this will be detail heavy I'm up over a pound for each leg and half the detail isn't installed.

I'm taking a crash course on fiber optics and will be incorporating it in this and the Thunderhawk


http://i.imgur.com/GLg6l.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/EcUce.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/lFLrX.jpg
 

Chaos_Born

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#66
Problem is that when it's all in white it's difficult to make out a lot of the detail. Still, can't wait for when we get to beyond the legs:thumbsup:
 
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#67
There's nothing like a well turned calf............hmmmmm:perv:



It's time to address the most baffling component of this project, namely what the outrageously long hydraulic cylinder is for running down the calf of the leg?

It appears in the epic model as well as the DS construct but I can fathom no applicable purpose. The quadrant gear in the ankle provides the step motion and that is supplemented by the small cylinders attached to the heel which mimic the function of the Achilles tendon. Were the cylinder attached upper leg behind the knee it would serve as the calf muscle but it doesn't attach there anyway it looks very interesting so I am including it in my construct complete with superfluous safety guard rails so people twenty feet off the ground don't lose an arm in the massive hydraulic piston.

As it is right now each of these legs are as complex as anything I have built with the exception of Lucie's pedal appendages and they are about only half detailed. Surprisingly my enthusiasm has not flagged.

http://i.imgur.com/ySHyN.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/opJp9.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/OBj8D.jpg
 
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#68
Just another bit before I put this aside for the weekend. The detail is progressing nicely although what these devices actually do is a mystery. but they do look intricate and that is the look I am going for.

http://i.imgur.com/TSHHq.jpg


Tomorrow the main lower leg cylinders; that should be fun.
 
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#69
First let me apologize for such a tawdry post but I figured there are those that might benefit from an image from the beginning of the construction. The waist block is probably the most important structure in the whole model. Not only must it bear the weight of the structure above but it must transfer that weight to the movable legs and sustain that transfer for the conceivable future (At least until The Blackadder has shuffled off this mortal coil.)

You will note that the structure is grossly undersized as it is about 5 cm square. This is intentional. You can always add girth, subtracting is more difficult. tomorrow I shall apply my solution to the articulation problem; i.e. a workable material that will sustain the pressure of the upper works and still be small enough to remain within scale.

In addition the thigh detail is coming along nicely (IMHO)

http://i.imgur.com/ndbbS.jpg
 
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Messages
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#71
I found these marvelous 'Tee' fittings that are just perfect to supply the fore to aft swing of the hip joint. They take a nice 1/4 -20 thread and are strong enough to support the weight of the model without being too cumbersome. I was going to go with copper tube 'Tee' fittings filled with epoxy and drilled and tapped but these are better as they are machined perfect and the tap self centers when cutting the thread.

Now some readers of this may baulk at the employment of these tools but they are easy to use and readily available at the local 'Home Depot' or 'Lowes' and a cheap 'T' handle and tap set is adequate for modeling purposes. I happen to have a fairly good machinist set but that quality is not necessary.

http://i.imgur.com/X28BG.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/823ZR.jpg
 
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#72
Today I worked on the pelvic mechanism which needs a bit of revising. Even though it works just as I wanted the sphere halves need to be undercut to fit the 'Tee' fittings thereby retreating further into the pelvic block. Therefore I need to mount the 'Tees' further outboard so they will be visible and allow for a great range of motion.

http://i.imgur.com/kiq1U.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/LjIlP.jpg
 

Sanai

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#73
Looking amazing sofar. Will you be doing any interior detail, perhaps within the cockpit/bridge/head?
 
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#75
Sanai said:
Looking amazing sofar. Will you be doing any interior detail, perhaps within the cockpit/bridge/head?
I always regretted not providing Lucie with interior detail but the foam core poster-board internal structure precluded that. I wasn't sufficiently adept at scratch modeling when I started Lucie she being my first scratch model. I was more concerned with the overall external appearance and not fully aware of the possibilities of scratch construction.

Since this model will be entirely built of styrene and must have a light weight internal structure anyway there is no reason not to attempt internal detailing. I hope to have a fully detailed hull and cockpit probably loosely based on the Reaver interior.

There is a lot more room in the Warlord titan enough for several decks; planning this seems like it could be a lot of fun. Of course the exterior hull panels ill have to be removable to view much of the interior but maintain structural integrity when closed up. That may pose a bit of a problem but I just had a thought whilst typing this...... Why not a stack of decks with overlapping exterior plates to maintain the alignment when assembled.......... That might well be the way to go instead of hinged panels.

......... And the Blackadder sinks further into the realm of obsessive compulsive dementia.
 
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